LED tint made easy

A good while back before the XM-L craze hit I was looking around at SST-50 stuff.  During some CPF downtime I started scrutinizing the SST-50’s PhotonFanatic was carrying on CPF-Marketplace.  Reading PhotonFanatic’s Luminus products thread I ran into a thread he referenced in regards to color tint:

These pictures make it easier to visualize color tint and temperature:
Cree – http://img199.imageshack.us/i/ansiwhite.jpg/

I have a decent handle on tint/temperature, but I thought that they were nice graphs and at least mildly helpful.  Sometimes it’s nice to look at that rather than the graphs in the datasheets.

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Your dad’s maglite 4D

Time to get your dad a new flashlight for a belated Father’s Day gift, but he won’t quit toting that damned incandescent maglite?!?

It just so happens that Mac’s XM-L drop-in is intended for just that old flashlight!  Provided that it has a D in the serial number, that is.  If the Mag doesn’t have a D in the serial, it’s very, very old now.  The XM-L dropin replaces the old SST-50 dropin.  The SST-50 was driven at the same current but was less efficient, so the XM-L should be brighter.

http://macscustoms.com/MagLiteDropIn.aspx 

alkalines just can’t handle the current on high though:
anyway it’s a good dropin alternative to the incan, it’ll be bright enough to be worth the bother rather than just a little brighter.
I’d say that the best fuel for the beast might not be the batteries Mac is recommending though, those are not LSD.  As a flashaholic, Mac is very accustomed to short battery life, charging constantly, etc.  The rest of us want the equipment ready whenever, and high-capacity non-LSD cells don’t necessarily do that.  Either a set of LSD d-cells or a set of 8x eneloops in 4x of these adapters (or similar):
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/soshine-aa-to-d-size-battery-convertor-case-3228
the LSD D-cells I’ve seen mentioned a couple of times here and there are these:
I’d say that $10/ea is reasonable, they should have about 4x the capacity of an Eneloop…
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AMD stepping on my toes again

http://forums.amd.com/game/messageview.cfm?catid=260&threadid=135743

I’m happy with the performance of my fancy 6950, but I’m really not happy with anything else… driver quality, Catalyst Control Center vs nVidia / Intel…  of course the instructions and problem listed in the thread linked above from exactly a fucking year ago still apply 100% today.  You can’t just go into CCC and switch the display scaling over to maintain aspect ratio like nVidia and Intel software lets you.

This is not my first problem with CCC since I got the card.  There has also been no fix forthcoming from Rockstar or AMD for the sparkling rain and other (minor) graphical glitches in GTA4.  Other things I suspect are AMD’s fault crop up in games, such as the crazy illumination/shader bubble in Metro 2033.
Maybe I should just eBay the stupid thing and get nVidia.  Looks like I could easily get $250 for the XFX used, I have all boxes/accessories and it’s registered to transfer the warranty.  A lifetime warranty nVidia GTX 570 starts at $320.  Maybe lobbing $70 at the problem will make me STFU and be happy.
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“safe” 18650 chargers?

Ryobi has a new-ish line of Tek4 single-cell tools.  They sell a single battery 4hr charger that costs $13, or a two-battery 36min charger that costs <$30 I think.

Obviously the cradles do not fit 18650’s, so they’d need cradles harvested from DX chargers or whatever.

Also the time will be higher to charge high-capacity 18650’s if they are intended to charge 1000-1500mAh safe chemistries.

They may not be appropriate at all for standard Li-Ion 18650’s if they are actually intended for A123 “nano” 18650’s, which have a lower voltage range overall.

I may pick up one cell (they are sold individually) and open it to see what it is.  People on RCG / CPF do not seem to know (or care?) what’s in the cells.  $13/ea isn’t a bad price for individual safe chemistry 18650’s.

Yeah, I’ll probably do that.  Maybe I can do it gently, in case I want to return the cell to the store!

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overdriving the cree xm-l —- FIGHT

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?308569-No-real-benefits-to-overdriving-XML
CPF had a big forum crash not too long ago, so it’s a bitch to read the thread, which has all been recovered from google cache.  I’m not through reading it yet, but lots of interesting discussion/catfights.  Techjunkie is only so trustworthy I peg him at the reliability level of an automotive hot-rod enthusiast.  Unless he’s flat out lying though, he’s got a set of 3 mags that show a big diff in running XM-L at 3.4, 4.2 ,5.0 amps.  the OP on the other hand has tested 3 samples that all seemed to like no more than 3.5A….

in other news, OP has posted some vF numbers that are straight fucking crazy: 

1A – 3.000v
2A – 3.103v
3A – 3.147v
4A – 3.177v
5A – 3.218v

that is LOW… way lower than the datasheet suggests (~3.420vF @ 3A I think).   Makes for flashlights that stay in regulation longer, etc etc.
techjunkie also says that he likes the XM-L better than the SST50 in every way basically… better lumen performance, better throw in same reflector, etc.
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eReader technology coming into it’s own

there have been a couple of items recently, looks like eReaders are really going to change in the near future, in a good way:

Touch screens and incredible refresh rates are key for where I want this stuff to go… make it interact like a touchscreen phone can, but with the 4-8 week battery life and high-contrast non-backlit screen…
probably won’t get there for another generation or so, but this is looking REALLY good!
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17mm boost/linear combo driver for a 2xAA Surefire-compatible body

the “NANJG 28” apparently has a linear regulator for power sources with a higher Voltage than the LED’s vF, as well as a boost circuit that works pretty well.

I’m picking up one for the empty 2xAA Solarforce L2R body I ordered.  I may just bypass the PIC entirely to make it 1-mode.
Sic22 posted some good but slightly hard to read numbers here:
His numbers indicate that the voltage/current/regulation/whatever falls off very quickly when input-voltage drops below 2.3v.  It’s not so severe that the product becomes unusable, but it’s significant.  So this driver may not be -ideal- for use with crappier Alkaline or NiMH/NiCad batteries, but with higher quality cells such as Eneloop NiMH or Energizer Lithium Ultimate… looks like it ought to do 1.8hr+ or 3.7hr+ respectively before falling below 2.3v total for a pair of cells.  For some reason Energizer Advanced Lithium looks really pitiful in comparison though….  Seems to me like it would provide well under an hour.  The data sheet is almost blank, but what is there is totally not encouraging (the Constant Current Performance graph).
For kicks, here’s the Alkaline data sheets for normal and e2 (now obsolete and replaced with lithium):
it -looks- like they could probably provide around 20-30 minutes above 2.3v.
so good deal… 2hr of light on eneloops, probably 4hr of light on Lithium Ultimate.
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high performance 18650 battery options and choices

good numbers here:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?308451-18650-battery-test-with-capacity-curves-for-many-cells

the graphs are a real bitch to read, there are so many lines with similar shades… I ended up using the eye-dropper tool in photoshop to nail things down.  I think that’s because he’s using the software that came with his CBA instead of a separate graphing package.
Looks like the “black/fire” trustfires are the ones to get among cheap cells.  You gotta spend a lot (~4x as much) to get better cells than that.  Right now I’m looking to put a 3A load on some 18650’s, so the TF “fire” ones are the only cheap option I think I have…
and 3A is clearly a stretch while trying to maintain 3.35v+

Digging deeper, here is an older 18650 roundup by the same guy:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?257543-LiIon-18650-battery-comparison&highlight=18650

This one has actual 3A discharge curves, very useful to me!
It looks like the “black/fire” cells from trustfire hold their voltage under a 3A load as well as anybody else in the roundup to me.  they hold 3.4v all they way up to the 900mAh discharge mark.  They hold 3.2v foralmost as long as AW’s 2600mAh cells, but at about 1/3 the price! (and that’s before AW’s $4.50 shipping charge…) http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?200812-AW-s-LiIon-Batteries-Sales-Thread-*Part-11*
For those looking to drive older (or dedicated thrower) Cree XR-E based flashlights,  we can assume you need a vF in the 3.5-3.7v range if your XR-E emitter is driven @ 1Amp.  More, depending on what the losses in the driver are.  Looks like the spread is about the same, actually.  I’d say that AW’s 2600mAh cells are noticeably better than the “fire” trustfires when you look at the 1A discharge (red line in graphs)… but again, 3x as expensive as the trustfires:

 

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Eneloop NiMH figures & XM-L performance with 3s2p Eneloop

I’m thinking of a NiMH Mag build as usual. Iwant something that can use straightforward/cheap AMC7135 based driver board + “safe” NiMH technology (cells, charger, etc all usable without supervision).

here’s the current state of the union:

Silverfox did some good destructive charge-cycle testing here (back in 2008, but nothing has changed): http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?114943-Cycle-Testing-Observations%85&p=1370657#post1370657
(scroll down to Round 3)

I’d say his discharge rate is a little low and his charge rate is a little high, but that was really the point to him I think.. he’s trying to firmly establish the effects of fast-charging. Personally I think his results look great… 100 cycles with almost no damage is pretty great. I’d like to know the effect of a higher discharge rate, maybe coupled with a more reasonable charge rate…
but wait…..
drumroll….
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?219301-Eneloop-Performance-Details-for-Experts
there we go. granted this is straight from Sanyo Europe but it does look pretty legit. 200 good cycles charged at ~1C (2 amps in this case) and discharged at 2A is awesome! Granted they don’t show the voltage-over-discharge curve that Silverfox does, so we can’t know how that looks… but I think it’s safe to assume that it’s probably nicer looking. Now it would be nice to see the middle ground, 2C charging (4A). Somewhere there’s probably a fine line that damages the cells though, I assume that 1C is well on the safe side of the line and an hour really isn’t that long to wait…

these discharge graphs at different loads (linked from the second link above) were also interesting to me:
http://www.eneloop.info/home/performance-details/discharge-current.html

so if I was to wire up, say, 3s2p in a maglite (6 cells in pairs of 2, fits fine) I’d be looking at between the red and blue lines (1.5A current per cell).  Driving a Cree XM-L at 3Amps, we’re going to need ~3.35v (typical) to the emitter according to the datasheet.  In order for the AMC7135 to stay in regulation we need 0.12v above vOUT (which they call vOUTL).  So we need 3.47 volts from the batteries to stay in regulation… with a standard single-mode driver I’d say we should drop out of regulation after 1700mAh (per cell, 3400mAh per pair of cells….) have been expended.  As we expend the next 100mAh or so (per cell) we should notice it drop out of regulation and get dim really, really fast.  Dim is relative here, it’s going to be pretty interesting to see how an LED which can produce 260-300 lumens at only 2.9vF is going to react to the batteries falling off.

Really I’d rather still have a protection program in place @ 3.0v that uses PWM dimming and blinks the LED every 5seconds to warn you so you don’t damage the cells.  The Budget Light Forum Versatile LED Driver has that feature of course.

Anyway since we are using a linear regulator we just burn off any excess volts so runtime is easy to calculate.  1hr8min before it drops out of regulation (assuming all my numbers above are good).  Not bad but to do better in a 2D mag will take some doing.  7.4v Li-Ion @ whatever they can muster (4000mAh? 3000mAh?) and an expensive TaskLED H6CC buck driver would double runtime.  You’d still want a control board in there though to get voltage protection and probably some modes. Expensive, Expensive, Expensive.

Cost projections for a build with good prices:
  • $15 – incan mag 2D
  • $14 – H22A flat top heatsink
  • $9 – XM-L on MCPCB from Illumination Supply
  • $5 – Shipping @ Illumination Supply
  • $5 – 8xAMC7135 driver board from Kaidomain (or backup source @ Illumination Supply for $7)
  • $8 – Arctic Silver Alumina thermal adhesive / epoxy
  • $20 – 8x Eneloop AA’s (6 of which get used)
  • $15-35 – looks like the charger may be something of a bitch for a 3s2p pack.  Figure $30.

    probably get the whole project done around <$110..

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    cheap flashlights for glove boxes, fourwheelers, and things

    Talking about “permanent” flashlights which I would install an Energizer Lithium or Energizer Lithium Ultimate in and leave in place (in glove boxes, fourwheelers, drops, etc).

    I’ve been shopping for some affordable ones but I have by no means scrutinized every flashlight on DX.

    DX – 1xAAA
    $2.90 – Mini 30-Lumen LED Flashlight with Carabiner Clip (1*AAA) – this and the “Super Bright” are clones of the KD Buckle light, but with a shitty clickie switch rather than a twistie
    $3.30 – Super Bright 7-1 3W 30-Lumen LED Flashlight with Strap – Black (1*AAA)– note that this and the one above both use shitty no-name LEDs rather than Cree/SSC/Osram/Nichia

    DX – 1xAA
    $10.37 – UltraFire C3 Cree 1xAA 1×14500 Flashlight (with Holster)– I had one of these that died a slow death, but it was a multi-mode w/ the 2xAA battery extension tube. I think it will be longer lived in single-mode single-AA format.
    $11.99 – Romisen MXDL RC-G2 Cree Flashlight Black (1xAA)– these are supposed to be very solid..

    KiaDomain 1xAAA
    KD offers their exclusive line of “buckle flashlight” twisties which are very good for the money. I like the twisty too for storing without fear of accidental activation. The older lines, V5 and older, all use Cree XR-E LEDs, which have the larger dome with a ring. Newer series (V6) use the XP-E LED which is much smaller, thus allowing for more reflector surface area and what should be a better beam. The V6’s are all driven at a much higher current though and will run down faster.
    There are a couple of threads at CPF that have caught my eye though… I know the oldest buckle lights were good because I bought one for a gift and used it and it was nice. The interim models I don’t know as much about.
    http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?217283-Poll-Failure-rate-of-Kaidomain-V4-amp-V5-Buckle-Lights.-Also-warning-notice-fix
    http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?287352-Buckle-V6-a-single-AAA-can-throw!
    Then you’ve got to figure that once you are in the ~$20 pricerange, you are in Fenix territory too…
    http://www.amazon.com/Fenix-Flashlights-E05-R2-Flashlight/dp/B004D2A02O

    I think that the KD Buckle V6 70L version is the one to get right now probably though, over the Fenix & KD Buckle V5/V4.

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